Some of the best rock climbing you can find in Spain is in the Costa Blanca region on the east-coast. Here you will find some of the finest bolted limestone crags in the country. With cheap flights and accommodation and a great climate for climbing it's no surprise the Costa Blanca has become such a popular destination for rock climbers.
Benidorm offers holiday goers the beach, nightclubs, bars and all manners of distractions. But for the climber, there are two main areas; the Sella crag has many variations of routes and is a great climb. With 450 different routes over six crags, the Puig Campana is another popular choice, with a stunning setting you can't go wrong. There are villas in Spain that are in a perfect location for the enthusiastic climber.
Alicante has 13 different crags in the area, offering quality single and 2-pitch routes with fantastic sports climbing routes. For the group climbers out there the crag of choice would be in Renaco, with a selection og fully bolted multi-pitch routes, you can't go wrong.
When you get to Spain you need to make sure you have the best accommodation to meet your needs, a good place to rest after a long day climbing. I would recommend hiring a car and finding a Villa Moraira then you are central to all the best climbing locations on the east coast of Spain. Remember to visit the Gandia Area and the Xalo Valley if you run out of places to climb.The area of Calpe includes the classic rock climber's haven that is the Penon crag. Rising out of the sea, the spectacular 300 meter penon crag offers a superb choice of multi-pitch routes with almost 300 routes to choose from. You can choose from a great selection of Moraira Villas, you can really enjoy the trip and really get into some climbing.
Moraira sea cliffs are in a very embryonic stage of development, but nevertheless worth a visit. There are a few routes at about 5-6c however the obvious potential is staggering. Imagine Kilnsey plonked on top of Beachy Head and that's about the measure of it. It is also a pleasant evenings walk just for a look-see. It's situated about 15 minutes drive from Calpe. Just follow the directions in the Chris Craggs guide.
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Chris Craggs on Mellizo Bomba (F5+, F6b), Moraira Sea Cliffs Thanks to Chris Craggs for this photo Photo © Chris Craggs |
As mentioned this cliff has a passing mention in the Chris Craggs book so if you fancy a visit get hold of a copy of this guide. Chris Craggs also mentions the vast potential of this area so all you new route bashers this could be your dream come true.
'A relaxed day at Moraira sea cliff is an absolute must. 'Chulla' (F5) is superb as are the F6a's to the left, and the F6a+'s to the right. 'Ripper' and 'Sol Sal' (I think) need a 60 meter rope. The bolts are all as close together as you would want of sport climbs, although the chains on the bolts are a little disconcerting to the uninitiated. When you've done for the day, call into the bar/cafe on the beach where the road meets the sand. Good cheapish Paella and a cold glass or two of San Miguel. Sunset swim (Not in the winter or spring) strongly recommended.'
