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Villayoooo-what? Its pronounced ‘Veeya-hoyo-sa’, a beautiful
seaside town on the Costa Blanca in Alicante whose claim to fame is
CHOCOLATES. It was here that cacao first landed on Spanish shores from
the Americas and it once boasted many chocolate factories, of which,
only Chocolates Perez
and another outfit remain. Oh, this place is also home to Chocolates
Valor, a big Spanish chocolate brand that churns out generic chocolate.
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A quest for experiencing the bean to bar
journey of chocolates leads to here, to Chocolates Perez, where Paco
Torreblanca still use old school machinery to make chocolates.
Having never seen old chocolate machines at work before, this was a
welcome break from Pasteleria Totel and a perfect way to spend a day by
the coast.
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Founded sometime in the late 1800s (They
are not sure when) by Gaspar Perez, they were one of the many chocolate
making families in Villajoyosa and by some stroke of luck, they have
survived whilst their colleagues slowly died off one by one. They
still do a fare share of chocolates there and the best thing is, they
do it the old fashioned way. Do not be fooled…these guys are bean to
bar, sourcing their bean mostly from Africa.
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They
conduct factory tours (Only in Spanish), and have a small museum of
their old equipment and a nice little room where they will try to
encourage you to part with your Euros. In this technological age, it
was an eye opening experience to see how things were done ‘back then.’
Imagine if we had no digital scales……
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This
section is in their showroom, where they try to educate customers about
the history of chocolate and how it is made. The array of chocolate
antiquities in here was staggering.
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This
granite stone is called a ‘Metate’, which was used over a small fire to
heat it up and whereupon cocoa beans would be crushed into a paste with
a large stick. Look closely at La Maison du Chocolat’s logo and you
will see the side view of the metate.
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This
is an old school winnowing machine. Winnowing basically means to
’shell’ the cocoa bean, and I feel for the guy who has to winnow
hundreds of kilos of beans with this device!
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Really cool chocolate pots with molinillo’s,
or whisks, that were incidentally invented by Spanish colonists in
Mexico. I have yet to come across one of these things in antique
markets but will definitely snap one up upon sight.
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This antiquated device must have been
quite the innovation in its day, for it is a nut skinner. Basically,
nuts with their peel go in at the top, and a thick cloth belt rubs them
off and the nuts drop into a container, ’sin piel’ as they say in
Spain. If you have ever hand rubbed rubbed tens of kilos of roasted
hazelnuts against perforated metal trays to remove the peel…you will
begin to appreciate this machine. Paco needs to get his hands on one
of these things………
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No fancy molds or cutters, and they are still doing it today! These are the drinking chocolate bars.
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This
will have a place in any small artisanal bean to bar manufacturer
today! This is basically a grinder for cocoa beans that does it work
with 2 adjustable (And very heavy) granite stones. Thankfully, this is
a motorized, belt-drive machine that no doubt saved the sanity of many
a chocolate worker.
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This strange contraption is where the
cocoa beans and nuts are roasted. With skilled hands and careful
control of a wood fire under the spherical roasting chamber, the beans
are roasted to the desired degree before being dumped onto the
collection tray.
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The
beans are then sucked up into the winnowing machine, where the cocoa
beans are shelled. The lighter shells gets sucked away and the heavier
cocoa beans drop to a collection chamber at the bottom, where after they
are again sucked out into the grinding machine.
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This
grinding machine is just a larger version of the one above. The
granite stones break up the cocoa beans into the size of tiny pebbles.
These are then transferred by hand to a granite grinder to break it
down into cocoa liquor.
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What
goes in is a pebbly, dry mass which after hours of grinding, turns into
a thick paste. I had a taste of the chocolate at this point and it was
really rough textured and quite unpleasant tasting, due in no small
part to the quality of the beans. Do not misunderstand, Chocolates
Perez do not claim to be some fancy, high end chocolate, but they are
just maintaining a tradition and are truly proud of what they do. I’d
rather eat their chocolates over a supermarket brand any day.
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The
cocoa mass is then further refined in a 5 roll refiner. These are
basically accurately set, parallel metal tubes through which the cocoa
mass pass through. The rotating tubes are set at a decreasing distance
from each other, breaking down the cocoa mass into evenly sized
particles as they travel through the different sets of tubes. Due to
the increased exposed surface area process enables the chocolates to be
refined with a minimum of heat buildup, which can affect the more
delicate flavours of fine chocolates. However, due to this exposure,
the cocoa is also susceptible to contamination as well as
foreign odours lurking around the room. At the end of this refining
stage, the cocoa is still grainy, but less so, and is very pasty as
well.
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This
cocoa mass is then transferred into a huge conch, of which I have
neglected to take a picture of, other than its mouth. You can barely
see the chocolate in there, being churned by huge spinning blades that
further refine and aerate the chocolate. The buildup of heat and the
shearing action of the blades release the cocoa butter and the cocoa
mass magically becomes more liquid and takes on a shine. It is at this
point that powdered sugar is added.
The conching process is somewhat like
distilling spirits. The distiller controls time and temperature to get
rid of the nasty ‘bad head’ and try to keep the ‘good head’. Ever had
knock-you-on-the-ass alcohol vs a beautiful, smooth one? Thats ‘bad’
vs ‘good’ head.
Chocolate is the same, whereby time,
temperature and movement are controlled to drive away the bad and
develop the good. Aeration and heat plays a part in flavour
development up till a certain point where there are diminishing returns
eventuating in flat, lifeless chocolate. It is the skill of the
chocolate maker to balance everything and having had the opportunity to
be part of this process at Artisan du Chocolat,
it is amazing to see how a previously unpalatable cocoa mass gets
transformed by the conching process, enabling once hidden flavours to
metamorphose like butterflies from creepy crawlies.
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What comes out of the tank is liquid chocolate, which is stored in a large, heated tank.
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From
the holding tank, chocolate is transferred by the bucket to a
‘tempering machine’, and this is the first time I have ever seen this.
It is a far cry from the machines we have today, and my feeling is
that this is a modified chocolate tank that is being used as a ‘batch
tempering machine’. A batch tempering machine basically brings a whole
batch of chocolate to its correct working temperature and holds it
there until it is used up.
The problem with this kind of setup is
that even though the temperature remains constant, the crystals
continue to build up and gradually thicken the chocolate, making it
very hard to work with. This also happens with modern machines like
the Selmi continous tempering machines. The main problem here is that
the chocolate does not get reheated above the melting point of the form
5 crystals, enabling more and more of these crystals to form and run
about at the correct working temperature.
Imagine shaving vs waxing. Shaving means
you got a clean face (Tempered chocolate), but it grows back harder,
faster and thicker (Thickened chocolate at correct temperature). When
you wax, its removing the hair at its root (Melting the crystals), so
the next time hair peeks out, it is softer and not so thick (Smoother,
better flowing chocolate).
Most machines like the Selmi are continuos temperers and the only way to ensure a constant number of crystals is a multi-stage tempering machine like the 3 Stage Turbotemper from Sollich.
The chocolate continuously gets reheated to melt away excess crystals
and then gets re-crystallized by running over heat exchange plates to
bring the temperature down again to the correct working temperature
with ‘just’ the right amount of form 5 stable crystals. That way, the
chocolate never gets thicker as you work with it. Of course….such a
machine comes at a hefty price!
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The properly tempered (Crystallized) chocolate is then pumped into a depositor where chocolate is deposited into metal molds.
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These
molds run down a very noisy vibrating belt, where any bubbles are
knocked out. Behind the white tiled wall is actually a ’spiral cooler’
and a guy at the end of the vibrating belt manually transfers the
chocolate molds into the cooler’s belt. Imagine a walk in fridge with
conveyor belts arranged in a spiral from top to bottom. In the
distance it takes the chocolate to travel from the top to the bottom,
it is crystallized enough to be removed from the molds. The unmolded
chocolate than goes into a separate cooling room where it continues its
crystallization.
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And
there you have it! The process of chocolate being made in one of
Spain’s oldest surviving bean to bar chocolate manufacturers. The tour
is conducted by Mr Perez himself, whose great grandfather founded the
company. A friendly, forthcoming guy who is proud and happy of what
they do at Chocolates Perez.
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This
70% bar was actually quite nice, though if a bit grainy. It had a bit
of sourness to it probably due to the African Foresteros beans and it
did have a hint of old socks. This old socks smell was the same smell
from beans my friend gave me from his farm in Malaysia that I will
forever associate with uncontrolled fermentation and mold.
Nevertheless, the chocolate had some
backbone and a nice chocolatey, roasty flavour. Not a world class
chocolate with the smoothest of textures, but good eating (In an
acquired taste kinda way) nonetheless. Its not expensive either.
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I
never really got to eat this one, as my Ecuadorian friends’ kids got
their hands on it first. From their faces, it must’ve tasted good. We
are in Marcona Almond country after all…
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This
is Chocolate a la Taza, or drinking chocolate thickened with corn
starch. Mixed with hot milk and paired with churros, it is the
ultimate Spanish breakfast. How sad indeed that I never got to eat
churros with chocolate a la taza. This particular chocolate a la taza
was flavoured with cinnamon and was also gobbled up by the kids.
If you are ever visiting Alicante and the
Costa Blanca, a trip to Villajoyosa should be on the cards to visit
Chocolates Perez as well as Chocolates Valor’s high tech factory. End
your day with dinner at Monastrell or its adjoining tapas bar in Alicante to round off a perfect day.

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